Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403: A Timeless Icon Reimagined for the Modern Explorer

Some watches simply refuse to fade into obscurity, their design and functionality resonating with generation after generation. The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is undoubtedly one such timepiece. Originally conceived as a practical tool for pilots back in 1938, this enduring classic has remained in continuous production for nearly a century, a testament to its inherent appeal and intelligent design. Now, Oris unveils the latest iteration, the Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 ($4100, which translates to roughly £3280 for our UK readers), a masterful blend of vintage sporting heritage and contemporary watchmaking prowess.

Oris has wisely chosen to retain the core elements that have made the Big Crown Pointer Date so iconic: the signature oversized crown, designed for easy gripping even with gloved hands, and the distinctive pointer-date complication, where a dedicated hand elegantly indicates the date along the periphery of the dial. However, this latest collection introduces subtle yet significant tweaks that bring the design firmly into the modern era. The result is a timepiece that effortlessly bridges Oris’ rich vintage sports watch history with a refined and contemporary aesthetic, solidifying its position as one of the most unique and characterful watches currently on the market.

The Calibre 403, the true heart and flagship movement of this collection, is presented in two captivating dial designs, each featuring a subtle texture that adds depth and visual interest. Enthusiasts can choose between a refreshing mint green, evoking a sense of vintage charm, or a warm and earthy terracotta, offering a more contemporary and adventurous feel. Both dial options feature a neatly placed sub-seconds register at the six o’clock position, adding a touch of classic elegance, and of course, the signature pointer date indication. The vintage-inspired design is beautifully contrasted by the modern colour palette and the perfectly proportioned 40mm case size, making it a versatile companion for any wrist.

For the discerning wearer, the Calibre 403 is initially offered on a rich brown Cervo Volante deer leather strap, sourced sustainably and adding a touch of natural sophistication. However, for 2025, Oris has also introduced a brand-new three-link stainless steel bracelet as an alternative option. This bracelet features smooth side flanks and a combination of polished and satin finishes, providing a more robust and contemporary look. Importantly, it also incorporates an Oris-developed folding clasp, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist.

Powering the Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 is the in-house Oris Calibre 403. As part of Oris’s esteemed 400-series of movements, this automatic Swiss-made calibre boasts 24 jewels, along with practical features such as hacking seconds and hand winding capabilities. Operating at a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour, it ensures smooth and accurate timekeeping. However, the standout feature of this movement is its remarkable 120-hour, or five-day, power reserve.

This impressive autonomy means you can set the watch down for the better part of a week and it will still be ticking away accurately. Furthermore, the Calibre 403 meets the stringent accuracy standards of a COSC-certified chronometer. For enthusiasts who value longevity and reliability, the Calibre 403 comes with an exceptional ten-year warranty, providing peace of mind and minimizing concerns about regular servicing.

The multi-piece stainless steel case of the Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 measures a comfortable 40mm in diameter, with a length of 47.5mm and a thickness of 12.3mm. The lug width is a standard 20mm, allowing for easy strap changes if desired. A domed sapphire crystal protects the dial, adding to the watch’s vintage aesthetic while providing excellent scratch resistance. While not a dedicated dive watch, it offers a respectable water resistance of 50 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear.

The rich history of Oris dates back to 1904, when Paul Cattin and Georges Christian founded the brand in Hölstein, Switzerland, where their headquarters remain to this day. Over the past century, Oris has achieved numerous milestones, even ranking among the top 10 largest watch brands globally in the 1960s. Since the 1980s, Oris has steadfastly pursued a catalog of unique mechanical watches, channeling their fiercely independent spirit. From their patented Worldtimer to their innovative depth gauge diver and mechanical altimeter pilot’s watch, Oris has consistently demonstrated an ability to innovate that few other brands can match.

This dedication to ingenuity is further underscored by the brand’s unwavering commitment to offering fair and accessible prices. The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403 is a perfect embodiment of this ethos, offering a compelling blend of timeless heritage, distinctive design, a robust in-house movement, an exceptional warranty, and an accessible price point, making it an ideal choice for both seasoned collectors and those just beginning their horological journey.

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